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Vendors and vegetable stalls at Carbon Market at dusk, with the Carbon sign and the Marcelo Fernan Bridge behind

Cebu City & Mactan

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Carbon Market and Larsian

Cebu City's oldest and biggest market by day, smoky barbecue skewers and puso at Larsian by night. A cheap, tasty and very local food trip in the heart of the city.

If you want to taste everyday Cebu, start at Carbon Market. It is the oldest and biggest public market in Cebu City, a busy maze of fruit, fish, flowers, dried goods and snacks on M.C. Briones Street, a short walk from the old downtown. Finish the day uptown at Larsian, the famous open-air barbecue strip near Fuente Osmeña Circle, where you pick raw skewers, watch them grilled over charcoal and eat them with puso, rice cooked in woven coconut leaves.

Why go to Carbon Market and Larsian

  • Real local life: thousands of vendors, piles of mangoes and bananas, fresh fish and the sound of Cebuano bargaining.
  • Cheap eats: snacks, fruit and barbecue skewers cost very little.
  • Easy to reach: both are in Cebu City, so you need no tour and no early bus.
  • Pairs well with the old downtown sights, which are only minutes away.

Carbon Market today

Trading at Carbon probably goes back to Spanish colonial times, thanks to its spot close to the port. Today the market has around 1,700 regular stalls and many more ambulant (walking) vendors. It is open every day, from before sunrise until evening.

The market is in the middle of a big redevelopment by the city and a private partner. Some sections already have new or renovated buildings, the old Freedom Park beside the market has been restored as a park, and construction of the first new main market building began in December 2025. The developer aims to open its lower floors around the end of 2026, but timelines often move. Expect construction areas, temporary stalls and changed walkways, and follow the signs and the crowd.

What to eat and buy at Carbon

  • Fruit: Cebu mangoes, bananas, pineapples and whatever is in season. Buy a few pieces to eat later.
  • Dried fish (buwad) and danggit, a favourite pasalubong. Ask for it sealed for travel.
  • Snacks such as banana cue, turon (fried banana rolls), kakanin (rice cakes) and fresh fruit shakes.
  • Native products like woven bags, baskets and souvenirs, especially in the renovated craft and food section known as The Barracks.
  • Evening food stalls: a night market has run in parts of Carbon on some evenings, usually weekends. Check locally before you go.

Want to know more about Cebuano dishes before you go? Read what to eat in Cebu and our guide to pasalubong from Cebu.

Larsian: barbecue and puso

Larsian is a strip of barbecue stalls on Don Mariano Cui Street, a few minutes' walk from Fuente Osmeña Circle. It has been a Cebu favourite for decades. After years of closures, a renovation and a few years under the name Sugbo Sentro, the provincial government gave it back its old name, Larsian, in early 2026 and has plans to improve it further.

Here is how it works: sit at a stall, choose raw skewers from the display (pork, chicken, intestines, chorizo, squid and more), and they come back grilled with a vinegar dip. Puso is brought to the table and you usually pay only for the ones you eat. You pay the stall at the end, in cash. Most skewers are cheap, while seafood costs more, so check the price before you order. The busiest and liveliest time is roughly 6-9 pm.

Where is Carbon Market and Larsian?

Downtown and Fuente Osmeña, Cebu City

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How to get to Carbon Market and Larsian from Cebu City

  1. Take a jeepney with "Carbon" on its sign, or a taxi or Grab to Carbon Market on M.C. Briones Street. From Magellan's Cross and the Basilica it is about a 10-minute walk.
  2. Explore the market in the morning, when it is cooler and the produce is freshest.
  3. In the late afternoon, take a taxi or Grab uptown to Fuente Osmeña Circle, about 15-30 minutes depending on traffic. Jeepneys also run this way.
  4. Walk a few minutes along Don Mariano Cui Street to Larsian and pick your stall.

Coming from the airport? See Mactan airport to Cebu City, and for jeepney tips read getting around Cebu.

Staying safe with your valuables

Carbon is crowded, and like any busy market it has pickpockets. Most visits are trouble-free if you are a little careful.

  • Carry only the cash you need, in small bills, and keep your phone in a front pocket or zipped bag.
  • Wear your backpack on your front in the tightest crowds and leave jewellery at your hotel.
  • Floors can be wet and slippery near the fish and meat sections. Wear closed shoes or sandals with grip.
  • Eat food that is cooked fresh and hot, drink bottled water and bring hand sanitiser or wet wipes.
  • Read our guide to staying safe in Cebu for more tips.

When to go

Go to Carbon early in the morning, roughly 6-9 am, for the freshest fruit and fish and the coolest air. Midday is hot and crowded. Larsian is best in the evening, when most stalls are open and the grills are smoking. During Sinulog in January and in the weeks before Christmas, downtown gets extra busy, so allow more time.

Tips for a good trip

  • Bring cash in small bills. Vendors rarely take cards and may not have change for ₱1,000 notes.
  • Bargaining is normal for souvenirs and big buys, but keep it friendly. Food prices are usually fixed.
  • Ask before you take close-up photos of vendors.
  • Bring a reusable bag for fruit and snacks, and put your rubbish in the bins.
  • A few words of Cebuano help a lot. Try our Cebuano phrases.

Make a full day of it: walk the old downtown in our Cebu City heritage guide, then try Cebu lechon before your Larsian dinner.

Photo gallery

Watch before you go

Restoration Project of Cebu Heritage District with Highlight on the Modernization of Carbon Market (Cebu Travel Guide on YouTube)
WOW! THE NEW CARBON NIGHT MARKET! FOOD AND ENTERTAINMENT! (Amazing Philippines on YouTube)
Street Foods of Cebu | Two Brothers Larsian BBQ, an Original Larsian stall since 1979 (Kalami Cebu!!! on YouTube)

Photo: "Carbon Market, Cebu - Cebu1786" by lumoplank, via Wikimedia Commons, released into the public domain (CC0). Banner video: "Carbon Night Market" by Bim24, via Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0 (shortened).

Last updated October 28, 2026

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